Wednesday, December 31, 2008
Thursday, December 11, 2008
Where Can U Buy The Gel Spiker?
New Video: Test Tokina AT-X 100 Pro
I like my new wanted to test Tokina lens, I'm on the road Marihilfer shot a little video that I just uploaded to Vimeo. It was color corrected with Magic Bullet Looks.
clicked on the picture, I hope you enjoy the shows.
I like my new wanted to test Tokina lens, I'm on the road Marihilfer shot a little video that I just uploaded to Vimeo. It was color corrected with Magic Bullet Looks.
clicked on the picture, I hope you enjoy the shows.
Monday, December 8, 2008
Music Workstation Furniture 2010
Macro lenses for 35mm film look Adapter
Since I am often asked what one should take if you want to buy lenses for that depth of field adapter, I now post a small article about it.
So, you should look out when buying lenses for DOF (Depth of Field) Adapter:
for film look adapters should only use lenses for SLR cameras were constructed.
Background: small film has dimensions of 24mm x 36mm, this also applies to the TV screen of most film look adapters. Lenses make the image from general circular, only the central part of the image falls on the film SLR cameras, as the lower figure.
Towards the edges, the image is both dark and blurred. Digital cameras usually have a smaller image sensor and the optics of this are calculated. They thus have a greater depth of field as 35mm film. If then a calculated digital camera lens on a 35mm depth of field adapter must be reckoned with darker edges and edge blur because the picture was just calculated for a smaller picture area.
fixed focal length, so lenses with a fixed Eintellungsgröße, generally offer better image sharpness than zoom lenses .
Thus, there is a standard set at 35mm optics of the following objectives:
18mm 25mm 35mm
50mm 85mm
Slight photo lenses, the manufacturers do not necessarily exactly the same focal lengths of film lenses. My wide-angle lens from Tokina is about a 17mm lens. reach
f4.0 to f5.6 aperture
In general their lenses imaging Maximum, this is for practice with depth of field adapters usually only possible with some light work in interior shots, because rarely are spaces from the ground up bright enough to reach this brightness. The intensity of the objectives is crucial.
Therefore: minimum aperture (the aperture, which transmits the most light) f2.8 .
All lenses that start at f 4.0 or higher aperture values are only during the day outside or inside use, with an immense burden light. For most adapters, the focusing screen, however, from an aperture of four and a half already visible, the aperture scope mounted on the lens accordingly low.
the light loss of the adapter and the camera should not be forgotten.
As a small calculation: Aperture 1.0 would correspond to any loss of light. Normally, the recording camcorder zoomed in on the TV screen ever had a fair value of at least f2.0 aperture (= one stop) have. Now take the adapter some light (between a half and 2 f) and then have the attached lens to it (at least half an f-stop with very good lenses) ... it loses on the light path that is at least 2 stop by the adapter technology, usually more.
minimum sharpness : Being called a minimum of field is the least possible distance between the receiving level (in our case, the focusing screen) and the recorded object or subject. The smaller this distance, the better. Good telephoto lenses have a macro name . Recently, I am the proud owner of a 100mm lens from Tokina (ATX PRO) with minimum distance 30cm and minimum aperture of f2, 8 This allows me and other details such as eyes fill the frame, and above all to make very sharp, as the following picture shows.
appear decisive for the use of a lens with 35mm adapter I also know if it changed the zoom setting or its size, because if so, is the use of filters by means of a compendium (Also called Matte box) in question ...
Quite simply, a tube pushes the zoom setting or in the way, this collides with the filter ... PLONG! ... And makes the worst scratches on it NEN.
The Tokina AT-X Pro 28-70mm zoom is an example that does not change its size.
is important for the work, the length of the path of the field closest to the most distant Schärfeneintellung. With my Tamron 28-75mm zoom as I have the problem that it represents only a quarter turn of the focus ring. Although the mapping services are quite good, but this short remove or between near and far make a precise sharpening in unexpected situations almost impossible.
Sources: Most of my lenses I have bought used on ebay, mostly from private sales, because the selection is greatest. I have noticed is that lenses used in most Pholäden to purchase at a similar price levels are, however, one must pay more Mehwertsteuer.
indicators for a total not ausgenudelte looks are the names "like new" or "barely used". It is important that the lens has no scratches on the lens, no fungus (a type of fungus that can form in wet storage in the lenses inside the lens and the image can be milky) and that dust has got into the inner lenses.
Everything else means a lot of research on the net, depending on how much you want to or can spend. Original master disc, such as Canon and Nikon seem to be the measure of all things that are third party manufacturers like Sigma, Tamron or Tokina sometimes try to compete with clones. Price and quality I can recommend the Tokina ATX Pro series only, even if I get any money from that: o) In various Internet reviews, but also his own experience provides an affordable alternative Tokina to the originals.
Since I am often asked what one should take if you want to buy lenses for that depth of field adapter, I now post a small article about it.
So, you should look out when buying lenses for DOF (Depth of Field) Adapter:
for film look adapters should only use lenses for SLR cameras were constructed.
Background: small film has dimensions of 24mm x 36mm, this also applies to the TV screen of most film look adapters. Lenses make the image from general circular, only the central part of the image falls on the film SLR cameras, as the lower figure.
Towards the edges, the image is both dark and blurred. Digital cameras usually have a smaller image sensor and the optics of this are calculated. They thus have a greater depth of field as 35mm film. If then a calculated digital camera lens on a 35mm depth of field adapter must be reckoned with darker edges and edge blur because the picture was just calculated for a smaller picture area.
fixed focal length, so lenses with a fixed Eintellungsgröße, generally offer better image sharpness than zoom lenses .
Thus, there is a standard set at 35mm optics of the following objectives:
18mm 25mm 35mm
50mm 85mm
Slight photo lenses, the manufacturers do not necessarily exactly the same focal lengths of film lenses. My wide-angle lens from Tokina is about a 17mm lens. reach
f4.0 to f5.6 aperture
In general their lenses imaging Maximum, this is for practice with depth of field adapters usually only possible with some light work in interior shots, because rarely are spaces from the ground up bright enough to reach this brightness. The intensity of the objectives is crucial.
Therefore: minimum aperture (the aperture, which transmits the most light) f2.8 .
All lenses that start at f 4.0 or higher aperture values are only during the day outside or inside use, with an immense burden light. For most adapters, the focusing screen, however, from an aperture of four and a half already visible, the aperture scope mounted on the lens accordingly low.
the light loss of the adapter and the camera should not be forgotten.
As a small calculation: Aperture 1.0 would correspond to any loss of light. Normally, the recording camcorder zoomed in on the TV screen ever had a fair value of at least f2.0 aperture (= one stop) have. Now take the adapter some light (between a half and 2 f) and then have the attached lens to it (at least half an f-stop with very good lenses) ... it loses on the light path that is at least 2 stop by the adapter technology, usually more.
minimum sharpness : Being called a minimum of field is the least possible distance between the receiving level (in our case, the focusing screen) and the recorded object or subject. The smaller this distance, the better. Good telephoto lenses have a macro name . Recently, I am the proud owner of a 100mm lens from Tokina (ATX PRO) with minimum distance 30cm and minimum aperture of f2, 8 This allows me and other details such as eyes fill the frame, and above all to make very sharp, as the following picture shows.
appear decisive for the use of a lens with 35mm adapter I also know if it changed the zoom setting or its size, because if so, is the use of filters by means of a compendium (Also called Matte box) in question ...
Quite simply, a tube pushes the zoom setting or in the way, this collides with the filter ... PLONG! ... And makes the worst scratches on it NEN.
The Tokina AT-X Pro 28-70mm zoom is an example that does not change its size.
is important for the work, the length of the path of the field closest to the most distant Schärfeneintellung. With my Tamron 28-75mm zoom as I have the problem that it represents only a quarter turn of the focus ring. Although the mapping services are quite good, but this short remove or between near and far make a precise sharpening in unexpected situations almost impossible.
Sources: Most of my lenses I have bought used on ebay, mostly from private sales, because the selection is greatest. I have noticed is that lenses used in most Pholäden to purchase at a similar price levels are, however, one must pay more Mehwertsteuer.
indicators for a total not ausgenudelte looks are the names "like new" or "barely used". It is important that the lens has no scratches on the lens, no fungus (a type of fungus that can form in wet storage in the lenses inside the lens and the image can be milky) and that dust has got into the inner lenses.
Everything else means a lot of research on the net, depending on how much you want to or can spend. Original master disc, such as Canon and Nikon seem to be the measure of all things that are third party manufacturers like Sigma, Tamron or Tokina sometimes try to compete with clones. Price and quality I can recommend the Tokina ATX Pro series only, even if I get any money from that: o) In various Internet reviews, but also his own experience provides an affordable alternative Tokina to the originals.
Diagram On How To Masterbate
comparison of different exposure times
Have now (finally) made the comparison of different exposure times on Vimeo, which I announced in my first report on the Letus Ultimate . Granted, he has failed not as clear as I hoped it to me. Unfortunately could test only up to a 250stel second, because for even lower shutter speeds do not have enough light to build it in my shower.
hope, however, one sees the difference in the second or third We'll see.
clicked on the picture to see the video.
Have now (finally) made the comparison of different exposure times on Vimeo, which I announced in my first report on the Letus Ultimate . Granted, he has failed not as clear as I hoped it to me. Unfortunately could test only up to a 250stel second, because for even lower shutter speeds do not have enough light to build it in my shower.
hope, however, one sees the difference in the second or third We'll see.
clicked on the picture to see the video.
Monday, December 1, 2008
Komik Honeyhoney Drops
Am I petty?
As I've written before about one and a half years, the lines of my profile, I have set goals for this blog. This included, that I am related to would annoy certain things ...
So far I have not made dennn but, primarily, the blog is used to prepare my experiences for others and to share with others. I refer, after all, a lot of information through the network, without which I knew not long enough, I know.
And that's the deal: give and take.
why I am angry a lot when I take my time to give someone a reply to his question and then never again hear something, either a "thank you" nor a "Find your shit I answer," but do nothing.
wanted to give me the brief for the good and got me calmed down again, but not without comment.
Regards, Christian
As I've written before about one and a half years, the lines of my profile, I have set goals for this blog. This included, that I am related to would annoy certain things ...
So far I have not made dennn but, primarily, the blog is used to prepare my experiences for others and to share with others. I refer, after all, a lot of information through the network, without which I knew not long enough, I know.
And that's the deal: give and take.
why I am angry a lot when I take my time to give someone a reply to his question and then never again hear something, either a "thank you" nor a "Find your shit I answer," but do nothing.
wanted to give me the brief for the good and got me calmed down again, but not without comment.
Regards, Christian
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